Friday 16 February 2018

Chapter 4: Fabric investigation

For this chapter we had to make a collection of all the neutral coloured fabrics in our possession and to make a thorough investigation of their various properties. The vast majority of the fabrics that I own are made from natural fibres.

Fig. 4:1
Fig. 4:1 shows cotton fabrics as follows:
C1 - A1447 Natural cotton fabric from Whaleys - soft, quite thick, clear weave
C2 - Osnaburg, a soft, thin cotton fabric with a slubby even weave which looks a little like linen (bought from Doughtys)
C3 - Curtain lining from IKEA - 100% cotton which is thin, soft and has a close weave. From previous experience this takes dye particularly well and has the added bonus of costing only £2 per metre.
C4 - Patchwork weight 100% cotton fabric is soft, easy to sew and has a close weave
C5 - Cotton muslin is soft and thin with an open weave.
C6 - Cotton scrim bought from Whaleys is thin, soft and has a very open weave.
C7 - Denim - just a small sample of this from Natural Fibres so it is 100% organic cotton, thick, firm with a diagonal twill and dense weave.
C8 - Organic cotton flannel, again from Natural Fibres. This is thin, very soft with a close weave and a brushed surface on one side.
C9 - Organic cotton twill, again from Natural Fibres. This is thin and densely woven with a diagonal twill.

Fig. 4:2
Fig. 2 shows a mixture of fabrics as follows:
J1 - Jute hessian from Whaleys is a coarse fabric with an distinct quite open weave
J2 - Jute scrim again from Whaleys is again a coarse fabric with a very open weave
M1 - Nylon organza bought several years ago from a floristry supplier - soft and transparent with a close weave and a distinct sheen
M2 - Velour picked up from an oddments bin - very soft with a plush pile and a shiny surface. I think possibly viscose
M3 - Nylon lace from my stash so no idea of provenance - soft with shiny areas of pattern woven onto an open background
M4 - Poly-cotton quilt batting - very soft with a brushed surface
 
Fig. 4:3
L1 - Linen scrim in natural, bought from Whaleys and L2 is exactly the same fabric in white. Both have a medium weave though the bleaching process has made the white version softer to handle.
Fig. 4:4
Fig. 4:4 shows my silk collection:
S1 - Silk organza bought from Stef Francis - soft and translucent with a close weave.
S2 - Silk cotton bought from The Silk Route - soft with a slight sheen and close weave
S3 - Silk dupion again from The Silk Route - crisp feel and a close weave
S4 - Silk tussah again from The Silk Route - soft with a slubbed pattern and close weave
S5 - Heavyweight silk tussah from The Silk Route - very soft with thick threads and an even weave 
S6 - More silk tussah described only as JB830 on the texture silk pack from The Silk Route - a firm handle with open double weave
S7 - Another piece of silk tussah from the same texture pack (JB829), this time with an uneven slubbed weave but very soft handle.
S8 - A final piece from the same pack as above (JB848), this is firm with a fine slubbed weave
B1 - Bamboo/silk satin bought from Art Van Go - very soft, with a fine weave and a sheen on the right side of the fabric.
 
 Fig. 4:5
Fig. 4:5 shows the results of the fraying tests on a selection of fabrics.



Fig. 4:6
And 4:6 shows the results of attempts to melt the same fabrics. My findings are shown in the table below (Fig. 4:7).
 
Fig. 4:7
 
 
Finally in this chapter we were asked to produce a series of decorative strips with interesting edges.
  Fig. 4:8
  1. Evenweave frayed on both sides
  2. Evenweave frayed in the same way and then cut into different patterns
  3. Curtain lining frayed and rolled
  4. Organza slashed on each side with v-shaped cuts
  5. Organza slashed on alternate edges and pulled before being fixed in place
Fig. 4:9
 6. Muslin cut with pinking shears
7. Linen fabric frayed down the centre then folded to make a looped fringe
8. Nylon organza torn then knotted (some with a double knot to make them more pronounced
9. Nylon organza strip slashed on both long edges then twisted and frayed
10. Linen fabric with bands of threads removed from the warp then the edges frayed
 
 

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